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 PRUNING TREES & SHRUBS
Judicious pruning can improve a tree or shrub, conversely bad pruning can ruin it. There are various reasons
for pruning . First and foremost pruning should be used to remove dead, diseased and damaged wood, and to
maintain a healthy, balanced framework of branches, where air can circulate and the sun penetrate to ripen
growths. Not all trees and shrubs enjoy the direct influence of the sun and some are of dense habit. Such
characteristics must be taken into account when pruning is contemplated.
PRUNING ORNAMENTAL TREES & SHRUBS
Little pruning is generally required for evergreen trees and shrubs. Old and lanky shoots that spoil the appearance and outline of a shrub should be removed flush with the base in spring before growth starts, as should any damaged or diseased wood. Most flowering evergreens, particularly
rhododendrons and heathers, should have the faded flower heads removed; shoots may be shortened at the same time. Deciduous trees and shrubs do not all require annual pruning. Shrubs which flower on the previous seasons wood should not be pruned until flowering is over. Thin out the shrub by removing several shoots
entirely from ground level. Many of the shrubs in this group tend to produce numerous twiggy growths unless old wood is
regularly pruned out. Shrubs which flower on shoots of the current year may be cut hard back in early spring before growth
begins. Established plants should have the previous season’s shoots pruned back to within a few buds of the base.
PRUNING CLIMBERS
Little pruning is needed for outdoor hardy climbers, except for the removal of dead wood and the thinning out
of crowded shoots. Climbers trained over restricted areas and confined to an allotted wall space, usually
require annual pruning. Climbers that flower on the previous season’s wood should be pruned after flowering
by removing the flowered shoots at their base and by cutting out thin and crowed branches, leaving young
healthy laterals that will bear the following season’s blooms.
Climbers flowering on the current season’s wood should be pruned in February and early March. Remove all
dead and damaged wood, thin out crowded shoots and , where necessary, shorten the growths back to a healthy,
outward-facing bud.
Ornamental vines and other climbers grown for their foliage rather than their flowers may be cut back to shape and at the same
time have dead or crowded shoots removed, in winter for deciduous climbers, and early spring for evergreens. Certain
variegated forms sometimes revert to green; such shoots should be removed entirely as soon as they are noticed.
PRUNING HEDGES
Young formal hedges should be pruned after planting in early spring, by removing the upper half or two-thirds of the leading shoots to encourage vigorous side-branching. Slower growing hedging plants such as
evergreens and most conifers, need less drastic pruning, being sufficient to just tip the leaders. Repeat this initial training for one or two winters until the desired height and shape is achieved.
Clip established hedges as growth demands by trimming lateral shoots and leaders. Dwarf hedges or edging plants, such as lavender and box, should be trimmed after flowering or in spring, and again once or twice
during the summer.
This fact sheet is a service provided by TRENT STONE. Suppliers of Bulwell Stone, Rockery & Walling,
Pavings, Decorative Gravels and stone materials.
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