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ESTABLISHING A LAWN
If you have a lawn it will almost certainly be a dominant feature, so it is worth making a good job of it. It ought to be level enough to mow without having to encounter humps and hollows, and to avoid bare patches later you need to choose the right grass species.
SEED OR TURF ?
The major differences between turf and seed are cost and timescale. Grass seed is cheaper than turf but will take longer to
produce an established lawn.
PREPARING THE GROUND
Clear the ground of all weeds, course grass, etc. either by hand or by using a translocated herbicide, following the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Cultivate the topsoil thoroughly and remove any perennial weed
roots, wood , rubble, etc. Rake over the soil to even falls and levels, removing all large stones, etc. Reduce the soil to a fine suitable tilth. Consolidate the ground by shuffling over it with your feet close together, or by
using a garden roller. Re-rake to remove all humps and hollows. Repeat until a satisfactory level is obtained.
SOWING SEED
Leave the ground for two weeks and then hoe off any germinated weeds. Apply a low nitrogen fertiliser following the
manufacturer’s instructions, rake it in and rake the soil level again. Sow the seed at half the recommended rate working
methodically across the area in rows. Apply the remaining half working at right angles to the first direction. This should ensure
an even distribution of the seed. Scatter the seed in a swirling motion, not too close to the ground, so that it does not fall too
thickly. Rake the seed in lightly, burying less than 5mm. deep. Water thoroughly if the ground is dry, using a sprinkler, and keep
irrigated until the grass is established. Do not cut the grass until it is at least 75mm high, after having rolled it first. Do not cut too
low the first few times.
The best time to sow a lawn is in spring or early autumn, when the soil is warm and damp. It is possible to sow throughout the
summer but watering will be very important if the weather becomes dry.
LAYING TURF
Lay the first row of turf to a straight edge. Work forwards, a row at a time, using a wooden plank to distribute your weight. Stagger the turf so that the joints in one row come half way along the joints in the next, like bonded brickwork. Butt each turf as close as possible to the next one, and firm it down. Make up a top dressing of one
part sand, two parts loam and one part peat and work into the joints with a broom or rake. Cut curves with a half-moon edger
using a hose pipe curved to the required shape as a guide. Water thoroughly and keep watered in dry weather until the turf has
bonded and rooted into the ground, at which time you can start to use your new lawn.
The best time to lay turf is autumn and winter when the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. Spring laying may require thorough
watering if the weather is dry.
Your lawn can be edged with stone, raised, or be stepped using walling stone from Trent Stone.
This fact sheet is a service provided by TRENT STONE. Suppliers of Bulwell Stone, Rockery & Walling,
Pavings, Decorative Gravels and stone materials.
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